Cuba

Havana

We arrived in Cuba after one of the shortest flights I’ve ever taken – a mere 50 minutes. By the time they had finished serving the back of the plane our complementary beverages (don’t mind if I do), we were told to flip up our tables and bang our seatbelts on for the descent! Nothing like drinking a Cuba Libra whilst dropping thousands of feet to make you lightheaded.

After picking up our bags, we thought we’d scout out the pick up for anyone wanting to share a taxi into town (no local buses!), and we found Trent, an Aussie who was meant to be travelling with a friend but due to some unfortunate circumstances, ended up travelling alone. He had been to Central America before, but never Cuba. So we all jumped in a taxi, and that was it- we couldn’t get rid off him… for a week! Only joking Trent! It was great to hang out with him – and we were both hanging onto Luke as our translator for near enough everything apart from the words we got all on our own – pizza, Cuba Libra, cerveza and most importantly… Si, uno mas!

Our taxi rolled past old school buildings, Cuba flags and lots of pictures of Che on their walls.

We turned up at this casa that Trent had got recommended from a girl he met. In Cuba, unless you’re going to splash out on a hotel, there aren’t really many hostels. So you stay in casas that families have registered. They dec out usually just one of their rooms and charge a fair price for your stay. Although they have to give back to the government for it, at least they’re getting a decent income.




Impressive graffiti almost everywhere

We stayed a couple of nights and walked all over the town. On the first day, we walked to two of the main plazas, ate some cheap pizzas, hung out at the square, and of course had a few drinks. The only difficult thing seemed to be finding bottled water. There were fizzy drinks and juice practically everywhere but nobody seemed to stock water. And it was HOT, BOILING HOT, so we were pretty parched by the time we found a vendor who sold water. It was on their display window so asked for several bottles. But apparently the display was all they had, so we took our litre and a half and sipped on it for the rest of the day!



All so colourful!

The streets were exactly what I had expected from the pictures I had seen- old buildings nearly falling down, but with people still living in them and so much character. Bright colours everywhere- on the walls, peoples clothes, and obviously on the old school cars whizzing past. The cars were just the most amazing things- mostly taxis or fancy tourist rides, they went from nearly falling apart to the most brightly coloured, shiny looking things, but all so individual and incredible!





Old buildings on every turn

We made a visit to the revolutionary museum which was pretty interesting, and showed that the people have so much respect for Fidel Castro. He was a very tactful and strategic person, and you could see why he, amongst others like Che, were idolised.



An icon in Cuba

The carnival was on that night along the river, and although we couldn’t get a great view as the tickets for the stalls were all sold out, we could catch a glimpse of these bright costumes that lined the street and amazing dance moves…plus the odd girl’s butt which the boys seemed to appreciate, although not so subtly!

The next day was a late start due to lack of windows meaning no daylight coming in and peace and quiet, which seemed to be a rarity these days! After finally finding a bank that didn’t have a power cut, we were finally able to change up some money (thanks Trent for subbing us).




The collection

 

We asked around about how to get a bus out of town to Varadero, a beach town about 3 hours from Havana. It seemed that all the tourist agencies couldn’t book us one as it had to be 3 fays in advance, so we were told to get a local bus (costing a mere 5 cent) to the ticket office for the coaches out of town – the only tourist buses, Viazul. After a long bus ride, we finally got to the ticket office, and it seems just in time. The lady at the counter was REALLY ready to finish for the day, so she told us to turn back anyone who got in line behind us! After a bit of a wait, it seemed we had all booked buses to Varadero and then onto Trinidad a few days after that.




Eager for a fare

 

We celebrated our luck with a few drinks and pizzas. Somehow asking for 3 veggie pizzas, one without cheese, turned into triple the price of a meat one due to a misunderstanding. Probably by habit, Luke’s pizza turned out to have cheese added to it, so a pasta it was for him. Apparently one tinned mushroom slice on your pizza adds $1 to your bill, and 3 slices of onion another $1, oh and not forgetting a green bean for a dollar too. Apparently vegetables are hard to come by on this island- as the lady tried to explain to Luke what importing to an island means about 3 times…a concept us Brits aren’t too familiar with!?!?




What do you sell???

 

Varadero

The next morning we caught our bus to Varadero, thinking we’d just rock up and find a casa. But it turns out it was holiday season for the locals, so it was a lot harder than we though. Well, it was for the boys anyway as they spent over an hour walking around in the heat, knocking on around 30 doors, whilst I sat in the shade with all our bags trying to learn some Spanish. It’s a hard life.

After eventually finding what seemed to be the only place available in the town (with Trent sleeping on a camp bed in the kitchen), we settled in and headed to the beach for a sunset dip. It was the warmest sea I’ve ever been in- like getting into a hot bath.

The sea was so clear and calm and the beach went on and on, packed with locals enjoying the day’s last rays of sunshine. It was just the most relaxing thing I’ve experienced this year. Pure bliss!



Sunset before the plague

We got out shortly after the sun had gone down and were standing on the beach drying off having a chat, when I suddenly touched my face and ended up squashing a bug…a familiar bug…a bloody mosquito (bloody in both senses of the word). Bliss over!!

We walked back to the casa and I felt my face getting itchy…on my forehead, then near my mouth, then on my cheek, and above my eyebrow. The boys were grimacing as we walked back and as I went to go and have a quick shower, I caught myself in the mirror…or what I believe to be myself...with what looked like THE PLAGUE on my face!!! I was going to take a picture to show you all why you should always have mosquito repellent with you, or as an advert for why all men should be gay…but I think my family would reject me and my friends never look at me in the same way. So you’re welcome for my lack of photos here!

We went out for a few drinks. Which turned into a few more, about before we knew it, we were having a 4am nightcap of a 3 litre tower of beer.

The next morning (or near afternoon), after a search for some food, we collapsed onto the beach. But it was so hot, you could see why barely anyone was on the beach itself, but more in the sea. It was lovely and warm and so clear you could see the fish swimming around your feet even at shoulder height.




The calmest, clearest sea...

 

After what we thought was only an hour on the beach, but what turned out to be several, I knew what was best for me and headed back to the room before sunset came and my face started to get eaten alive again. Getting vegan food for Luke turned out to be a bit of a pain and it seemed he was provided with pizza, with no cheese, and no toppings most nights. But he only had himself to blame as we only ever set out for dinner after 10pm! The cheeseburgers though at our beer tower place were pretty amazing (especially after a few)!

We had another day on the beach, learning how to throw a wooden spear that we had found through the water. Oh, the life of a traveller – how simple life can be! Did we mention how jealous we were of all the kids’ inflatables??

Trinidad

We had an early morning bus the next day to Trinidad, and whilst sleeping pretty much the whole journey, we finally arrived to a quaint little town with colourful houses everywhere. Our bus pulled in and we went straight to the ticket office where we tried to get Trent a ticket back to Havana for the next day (as he was flying out the following one). But it seemed the only tourist bus in town was full, as was the waiting list! But there’s always a solution…just pay the driver direct and he’ll let you take the conductor’s seat! We booked our own tickets for a couple days after that and saw the guy draw a line under our names and write ‘FULL’ for that day…phew!




Trinidad views

  

We walked a few paces out of the bus station before being swarmed by 3 women trying to get us to stay at their casa. One of them seemed to know only how to say ‘clean room, $5, bathroom, terrace, no compromise,’ so decided to keep on saying the same thing. As Trent and I giggled like kids in the background, Luke picked the worthy lady and we headed back to her place. She actually seemed lovely, and we met her son and husband before being ushered into a room that I could only describe as ‘orange.’ Orange bedspread, orange pillows, orange ceiling, orange walls, orange table lamp…just ORANGE.

It turned out to be a lovely stay and a town that we all thoroughly enjoyed! We had a walk around on the first night and headed up the hill towards the radio tower. Now, the guys weren’t very good with directions…I already knew this about Luke, and after a week of hanging out with Trent, I could confirm he was no better. If I left the two of them together, it would be the blind leading the blind! So I got out voted on a pretty obvious road to the top of this hill and we ended up wading through knee deep grass surrounded by horses. Eventually finding our way back to the main path, we made it up to the top to reveal a spectacular view of the town, church and all. Looking south, we saw the sea appearing from some rocky enclaves, and to the North, these gorgeous green hills.

We walked down and bumped into a couple of guys with horses and worked up a deal for a horse ride in the morning before Trent left.

After a couple of beers, it was time for dinner and Trent had decided to treat us somewhere nice. Thanks again! It was an amazing little restaurant, and we both ordered the lobster (obviously Luke did not…but he had a gorgeous pasta and massive salad). The lobster was so delicious…with a tomato, rum and beer sauce. And it was a huge portion! Anything else and we would have left it, but lobster? Who leaves lobster as leftovers??? Not us, that’s for sure! Soldier on!

Over dinner, Luke told us of his last horse riding experience where he was with a group and got handed a baby armadillo, and as he tried to hand it over to his ex, she freaked out and dropped it…right in front of Luke’s horse. And with the gayest horse impression I’ve ever seen (and most likely the only one I’ve ever seen), Luke pretended to look down at it and rear up – dropping Luke off the back into a pile of mud.




My lychee(ish) fruit man

 

We rolled back to the hotel and the next morning got up early for our horse ride. After a quick 5 cent coffee each, we strolled into their backyard to see 2 noble steeds and a couple of horses who would be best described as more of a donkey…their little legs shaking, shaggy and obviously not these guys’ pride and joy.

Well, on Trent got to the first decent horse, then they popped me on the other well kept one, and Luke…well he just mounted this donkey looking horse, legs nearly buckling from his weight. To be honest, Luke could have been the weight of a feather and this thing’s knees would have almost buckled regardless.

But off we went…and it was my first proper ride on a horse (excluding those moments at the fair where they escort you around in a circle as a kid on a Shetland).

After a few stop and starts from my reluctant horse, we were well on our way, and I was getting used to her. We cantered along with (Luke trotting) and got all the way to the waterfall after an hour, with our horses stopping for a simultaneous piddle in this trench.

We went on, navigating through massive muddy puddles and trying not to get splattered by our horses. Well…Luke decided in this massive puddle that his horse was going to join in with this cantering. And the backside of my horse and me didn’t appreciate it as we got covered in mud. And for every puddle after, Luke was trying to get his horse to trot right next to me- meany!

It was boiling hot, and although we had paid for 4 hours, we didn’t mind going back after just under 3 hours…our buts were also starting to hurt and our legs too. It’s definitely harder than it looks! Plus, I think Luke’s horse was getting tired!

On our way back, a guy asked if we needed a taxi to Havana, and after a chat, Luke said this guy could take Trent in 15 minutes for $5 more than a bus in an old school car. After picking up his stuff, the guy came to our place to pick him up. Shock horror, this taxi had filled up before and left…but this guy was adamant he could sort Trent out with a seat on the local bus. He really wanted his $5 commission!

Well, just to make sure he got there and didn’t rely on the later tourist bus, we said our goodbyes and Trent was off.

That evening Luke and I went and sat on the steps of Casa de la Musica, an open area on the square, where a live band played salsa style music and people were dancing – some really amazing people, and some oldies with such smooth moves.

We were back the next evening after a slightly lazy day, making a quick exit just before the skies opened up and the band and the crowd started running for cover.

The following morning, we went to catch our bus. God knows why they don’t want you to pay until the day you leave! With electricity cutting on and off, people in the wrong queues, no signs anywhere…it was a shambles. And then you had to queue up for them to tag your luggage and put it in a room, for them to then take out of the room after everyone had boarded the bus?!?

So an hour late, we were off to…

Havana again...

We had reserved a place in the hostel we stayed at before we had left last time, so were all set up. We took a walk into the old town again, visiting another plaza and grabbing some dinner and our last cuba libras in Cuba before heading back.

The next morning, we had to quickly run around to swap some currency, and we found a sweet turquoise coloured ride to the airport. It was old school, with leather, torn seats but had so much character.



Love these beauts - similar to our taxi

And that was it, after the quickest airport security ever, we were through immigration, boarding our flight, and taking off from this beautiful little island. I’ll definitely be back one day!

Back into Mexico briefly…

Cancun

We flew into Cancun airport and took a bus back to downtown and booked our bus straight to Merida, a town 4 hours away. Our flight was leaving from there bright and early the next morning.

We grabbed some food, with Luke getting his order wrong twice (oh, the issues that come with being a vegan), and bordered our bus…there was even a queue and assigned seats!

Merida

I had volunteered in Merida for 3 weeks about 5 years ago, and was excited to go back. But my perception of its size and old town feel were completely skewed. Whether I had just remembered a small part of the town where I was staying, I don’t know, but it was massive and one thing I definitely knew had changed, was how much more touristy it was, with these obvious tourist bars, shops and cafes.

We had to decide when we got there what to do. It was 11pm and we had to be at the airport at 4am. So, as we had some money left over anyway and were knackered, we decided to check in to a hostel for just £6 for a few hours sleep. After finding some tacos, and visiting the main square, we were off to bed for a mere 3 hours!

We got up as if we hadn’t slept at all and after spending our last few pennies on some mochas, we were jumped in a taxi to the airport.

Our plane took off as the sun was rising, casting an orange glow across the horizon as we took off into the clouds. After a brief stop over in Mexico City airport, we were off again on a 3 hour flight to Colombia.